Sunday 15th

This afternoon Karyn and I went to Caplaki Artists Village to do what was supposed to be the last of my souvenir shopping. It was my first time there, and I’ve always been very curious to go. But I will never go again. And not just because I’m leaving Rwanda. On principal too. Remember how cross I got in Kenya when everyone was trying to charge us ridiculous prices? Well Caplaki is just like that and I wouldn't recommend going there. I went into one of the stalls to find this American woman holding a five inch beaded bowl in one hand and a wad of cash in the other. The shop owner had just told the lady that the bowl cost 80 000 rwf, which is about £80, and the American lady, in all her street saviness was about to pay up. “Hold on!” I yelled across the room. “Don't pay more than 3000!” I asked the American lady if she knew how much the currency was worth, and she said that she did and that she had calculated the bowl to cost $147. And apparently she was willing to pay it! It was the first time in 8 months in Rwanda that I’ve seen such dishonesty, and it left me reeling. Every stall we visited had hoiked the prices up ridiculously high and I was rather upset that this culture has penetrated Rwanda now too.

In protest we put our wallets away and went back to the craft market in town that we know and love. Yes, you should still haggle, but they'd never more than double the price and usually they're about spot on.

We had shopped for about 2 hours and were now very ready to drop, so we went to Shokola to meet Mike and have dinner. I'm really going to miss eating out when I get back to the UK. Not only is it way too expensive, but there is an unbelievable lack of good restaurants and coffee shops. It amazes me but in my opinion Africa is way ahead of the game in the eating out business. Yes, it can take over an hour for them to bring you a soda, and heaven forbid the food actually coming out hot, but the quality of the food is usually really good, and décor, atmosphere and originality are superb.

That evening we went to Jen's. Their rabbits had babies a few weeks ago so we went to check them out. They're so cute!