I've finished my blog! Yeah! It's been exhausting. I hope you've enjoyed reading it more than i've enjoyed writing it.
I'm off to Athens on Thursday for a month then to Vienna for two months. I'll be working with refugees and polishing up my Farsi skills before I go back to uni.
If you like my blog and want me to continue writing while I'm in Europe, I'm going to need some encouragement. My email address is nicola.is.a.darling@gmail.com.
Write me or you'll have to find something else to read.
Tuesday, 31 May 2011
Ihene the Goat
I thought you might like a before and after shot of my Ihene.
Before:
After:
Some of you may be thinking that i'm ever so callous for eating my pet goat, but that's just the reality of life in Africa.
Wednesday 25th
My flight left Kigali at 11.30 am without incident. I’m feeling pretty calm today. I had 10 hours in Nairobi Airport between flights which I wasn't looking forward to, but praise God it turned out OK. This is definitely the end of my African adventures. I had the most superb time with the best people. Rwanda, Tanzania, South Africa, Uganda, Kenya, Burundi and almost DRC. That's pretty good going.
I want to end by giving glory to God. He has been so faithful this whole time. I had such an amazing time in Rwanda and he has provided in so many ways. It was such a privilege to witness the amazing work that God is doing in this precious nation and I will never forget all the valuable lessons I’ve learned. In a way I’m sad to be leaving, I’m gutted to say goodbye to the people I love, but I’m determined to look to the future and embrace everything that's ahead.
If I had to describe Rwanda in one word I’d have to chose 'paradise'. It is a breathtaking country with the most genuine, generous and loving people I’ve ever met and I can't wait until God takes me back there!
I want to end by giving glory to God. He has been so faithful this whole time. I had such an amazing time in Rwanda and he has provided in so many ways. It was such a privilege to witness the amazing work that God is doing in this precious nation and I will never forget all the valuable lessons I’ve learned. In a way I’m sad to be leaving, I’m gutted to say goodbye to the people I love, but I’m determined to look to the future and embrace everything that's ahead.
If I had to describe Rwanda in one word I’d have to chose 'paradise'. It is a breathtaking country with the most genuine, generous and loving people I’ve ever met and I can't wait until God takes me back there!
Tuesday 24th
Today was the most emotional and stressful day of my young life. I’ve known for eight months now that the 24th May heralded my return to the UK, at first an assuring promise of an end to the unfamiliar and daunting but more recently a day, too fast approaching, of upheaval and sadness.
Rwanda is my home. Indeed, I cannot help but feel that it has been kinder to me in this eight months than England ever was. Yes, the UK is an extremely privileged place to grow up in and I am very grateful for the benefit it has given me over the years. But as any visiting foreigner can testify, there is something very cold and harsh about the UK, the culture, the landscape, the weather. I do not despise my homeland, nay, I am very patriotic, but my heart was built for warmer climates and I hope to return to Rwanda soon.
I packed the day full of last minute errands and heart wrenching goodbyes. The past week has been fairly emotional too, saying goodbye to people and places that I’ve come to love. By the morning of the 24th, my nerves were so shot that I felt physically sick. I did not sleep in the night so I was pretty tired as well, and my list of things to do grew harder to achieve as the 4 o clock deadline loomed.
I got up at six for what I thought would be my last bucket shower, and I enjoyed every second of it believing that tomorrow better things were in store for me. After showering I went to Giporoso to pick up some tea and coffee for gifts, but to my frustration the 'supermarket' was still closed. It astounds me that anything could still be closed at 8.00 am in Rwanda, considering that almost everyone, myself excluded, gets up in the morning at 5 am. For what possible reason could the local shop not open until nine?
Well this just added stress to my plate, so I went home, crawled into bed and whimpered for an hour before trying again. Only this time I recruited Karyn to come with me to try and keep me sane. After Giporoso I went into town to change money and buy some gifts from Dora before meeting Isabelle to say our last goodbye. We went to Bourbon for ice cream, and Isabelle cried the whole time we were together. I feel bad about leaving her. She's had a really rough life and she deserves to have a good thing stick around a bit longer. But it was an honour to be her friend and tutor if only for a short while.
Next on the list was to say goodbye to Dora at work and buy some croissants to eat for dinner at the airport. Dora has been a real blessing to me and I love her very much. And I finally got my chocolate balls!
Rwanda is my home. Indeed, I cannot help but feel that it has been kinder to me in this eight months than England ever was. Yes, the UK is an extremely privileged place to grow up in and I am very grateful for the benefit it has given me over the years. But as any visiting foreigner can testify, there is something very cold and harsh about the UK, the culture, the landscape, the weather. I do not despise my homeland, nay, I am very patriotic, but my heart was built for warmer climates and I hope to return to Rwanda soon.
I packed the day full of last minute errands and heart wrenching goodbyes. The past week has been fairly emotional too, saying goodbye to people and places that I’ve come to love. By the morning of the 24th, my nerves were so shot that I felt physically sick. I did not sleep in the night so I was pretty tired as well, and my list of things to do grew harder to achieve as the 4 o clock deadline loomed.
I got up at six for what I thought would be my last bucket shower, and I enjoyed every second of it believing that tomorrow better things were in store for me. After showering I went to Giporoso to pick up some tea and coffee for gifts, but to my frustration the 'supermarket' was still closed. It astounds me that anything could still be closed at 8.00 am in Rwanda, considering that almost everyone, myself excluded, gets up in the morning at 5 am. For what possible reason could the local shop not open until nine?
Well this just added stress to my plate, so I went home, crawled into bed and whimpered for an hour before trying again. Only this time I recruited Karyn to come with me to try and keep me sane. After Giporoso I went into town to change money and buy some gifts from Dora before meeting Isabelle to say our last goodbye. We went to Bourbon for ice cream, and Isabelle cried the whole time we were together. I feel bad about leaving her. She's had a really rough life and she deserves to have a good thing stick around a bit longer. But it was an honour to be her friend and tutor if only for a short while.
Next on the list was to say goodbye to Dora at work and buy some croissants to eat for dinner at the airport. Dora has been a real blessing to me and I love her very much. And I finally got my chocolate balls!
Then we went to Shokola for lunch with the other interns. I had chicken tagine and chapattis for the last time and Mike finally bought me a slice of bereavement cake. He promised it to me when my grandmother died but we've not had a chance to buy it until today.
And of course, it being Tuesday, we went to Ubuzima. I said goodbye to everyone and thanked them for their love and kindness this year. They are such a blessing and challenge to me.
The group surprised me with a portrait of myself and Mama Deborah painted Julienne's husband, and with the patchwork quilt they have been making over the past few months. It's the first one they've ever made, and it's gorgeous. A big, big thank you to everyone involved!
It was very hard for me to leave Ubuzima. These men and women have become a big part of my life and I love them very much. They are such beautiful people and I’m really going to miss them.
Jen rushed me home at four to quickly finish packing before taking me to the airport. Silas came to wave me off, but to my shock and dismay, I did not get far. My flight was not appearing on the departure board, and when Jen went to inquire I heard one word; cancelled. After all this, my flight was cancelled. As I was rearranging my flight for the next day, I found out that it had been cancelled for months but the travel agent had failed to tell me. Brilliant.
As I said, it was a very emotional day.
Jen took me home and I spent the night at Dora's. Mike came over and he, Karyn and I watched TV and had dinner together.
Although the cancellation of my flight was kind of stressful, it actually worked out for the best. Tuesday was a very tense, emotional day and because it was so rushed I had no time to process everything. This way I had more time to reflect on everything and prepare myself for the journey home.
Monday 23rd
It's hard to believe but it took me the whole day to pack. I stopped at lunchtime to watch The Hunchback of Notre Dame but other than that I packed pretty much solidly.
Sunday 22nd
This evening I’m having a leaving party which meant this morning we had to kill the fattened goat. And he was fattened.
I felt very little remorse about saying goodbye to Ihene. He was a good goat, in that he did goat thing very well; bleating, pooing, eating everything in sight. But it turns out that goats are annoying if you spend too much time in their company.
I said goodbye to him on Saturday night, and the next time I saw him was after church on Sunday and he was very much altered, as you can see from this photo.
I felt very little remorse about saying goodbye to Ihene. He was a good goat, in that he did goat thing very well; bleating, pooing, eating everything in sight. But it turns out that goats are annoying if you spend too much time in their company.
I said goodbye to him on Saturday night, and the next time I saw him was after church on Sunday and he was very much altered, as you can see from this photo.
To Ihene:
Better in Death
Than in Life.
Thank you for your sacrifice,
We will always remember you,
But probably not miss you.
Because he was such a young goat, the meat was really tender and not at all chewy. Delicious!
So our 60 guests started arriving at 4pm. First off we played Lady, Hunter, Gorilla, a fitting game considering our location. Then I decided to introduce the Rwandese to Ultimate Ninja, which proved to be a bit too complicated for most of my friends.
The street boys did a rap and a skit and was really good of them.
We also had a troop of traditional dancers, drummers and singers. This was a real treat for all of us especially as they dressed up in traditional costume. Even I joined in!
And I delivered a particularly impressive speech in Kinyarwanda thanking everyone for their love and support over the last 8 months. Silas helped me right it of course, but it was a real privilege to be able to say thank you in Kinyarwanda.
Various people got up to speak, including Nathalie who came all the way from the refugee camp to see me off.
I can't believe how much I love all these people. I’m gonna miss them so much. Arrrggghhh!
Saturday 21st
This evening we had a pizza party with the street boys at Apollonaire's house. Mike and I went into town to pick up the pizzas at three, and then got a taxi to the house because it was raining so hard.
After the party the three us us went home and watched a film and ate lots of chocolate.
We had a great time with the boys that night, playing cards and other party games.
There were more boys than we were expecting so the pizza went way too fast, but we made do. Karyn joined us before the end and it was a really special way to say goodbye to everyone.
After the party the three us us went home and watched a film and ate lots of chocolate.
Friday 20th
The other interns have gone with the team to visit the refugee camp in Kiziba near Kibuye. I would really have liked to go but I’m leaving in less than a week and I’m feeling pretty tired. It's exhausting saying goodbye to people and preparing to go back to the UK, and I wanted to spend my last few days with the people I love rather than trying to make new friends at the camp.
I went cooking this morning at church. I absolutely love being there with Shumbusho and the gang, chopping, cooking and plating up all the food.
In the afternoon I popped into town to have lunch with Dora at Camelia. Bye Dora! It would be the last time we'd go out together and I’m really going to miss her. Just as we finished lunch it started to rain. Dora suggested that I stay in the restaurant until the rain had stopped but an hour later it was still coming down so I decided to brave it and leave. Error. It was so cold and wet that I had to duck into another restaurant for cover.
I went cooking this morning at church. I absolutely love being there with Shumbusho and the gang, chopping, cooking and plating up all the food.
In the afternoon I popped into town to have lunch with Dora at Camelia. Bye Dora! It would be the last time we'd go out together and I’m really going to miss her. Just as we finished lunch it started to rain. Dora suggested that I stay in the restaurant until the rain had stopped but an hour later it was still coming down so I decided to brave it and leave. Error. It was so cold and wet that I had to duck into another restaurant for cover.
And even there I was so cold I thought my fingers were going to drop off. It was now 5 o clock so there were no buses. I had no choice but to get a bike home. By the time I got there I was sopping wet and feeling rather sorry for myself.
Thursday 19th
Jen took me out for lunch today, to the restaurant she took me to on my first day in Rwanda. It was one of those full circle dealies. I’ve only been on those 2 occasions, because I didn't have a clue where it was situated. It's a great place called New Fiesta, good food, dirt cheap. But in the strangest of places. I’ve been wondering where it was all year but never quite got round to finding out. But I’m glad to have gone back and I would recommend it if you're ever in Kigali.
After lunch Jen offered to drive me to church. But before we could get there, we came across an accident blocking the road. A small van had overturned and landed on a car. So I jumped out the car and walked the rest of the way. Thing is, the wet season isn't as over as I thought it was. It was chucking down with rain, and the way to church is dirt roads, which have become near impassable rivers of oozing red mud. Wearing flip flops on Rwanda's rough terrain in the wet season; error. By the time I made it to church, my feet and ankles were covered in mud and my dignity was all but gone. It's a bit like doing an ice breaker at Jubilee.
I took Isabelle from church to Nyabugogo to buy her some stuff before I leave. We got two pairs of shoes, a shirt and some jeans for 12 quid. Nyabugogo is the new Primark. The bargain of the day was a pair of brand new jeans for just £2.
After shopping I went back to Isabelle's new house. It's in Gitega just by Nyamirambo in town, and the house is lovely. It's spacious and clean and close to the road. Unfortunately there was a power cut so we had to have the lesson by candlelight, but we managed alright. Josienne, Isabelle's foster mum, cooked us a delicious dinner of rice, vegetables and chips. It was a really nice evening.
After lunch Jen offered to drive me to church. But before we could get there, we came across an accident blocking the road. A small van had overturned and landed on a car. So I jumped out the car and walked the rest of the way. Thing is, the wet season isn't as over as I thought it was. It was chucking down with rain, and the way to church is dirt roads, which have become near impassable rivers of oozing red mud. Wearing flip flops on Rwanda's rough terrain in the wet season; error. By the time I made it to church, my feet and ankles were covered in mud and my dignity was all but gone. It's a bit like doing an ice breaker at Jubilee.
I took Isabelle from church to Nyabugogo to buy her some stuff before I leave. We got two pairs of shoes, a shirt and some jeans for 12 quid. Nyabugogo is the new Primark. The bargain of the day was a pair of brand new jeans for just £2.
After shopping I went back to Isabelle's new house. It's in Gitega just by Nyamirambo in town, and the house is lovely. It's spacious and clean and close to the road. Unfortunately there was a power cut so we had to have the lesson by candlelight, but we managed alright. Josienne, Isabelle's foster mum, cooked us a delicious dinner of rice, vegetables and chips. It was a really nice evening.
Friday, 20 May 2011
Wednesday 18th
I dropped by the post office this morning to pick up a package. Thank you home group for sending me chocolate! You will be rewarded for your diligence and generosity when I return, for I will come bearing high quality, great flavour tea and coffee from the breathtaking mountains of Rwanda.
After going to the post office, I met up with Jean Claude in town. He was late enough arriving for me to squeeze in a quick slice of banana bread at Bourbon before going to buy some Gitengi for his grandmother. Instead of going with him, I gave him eight quid and sent him off on his own. This is a great way of saving money.
We went back to his house so I could see his puppy one last time and say goodbye to his family.
After a quick lunch of offal and cassava dough, I headed back into town to meet Mama Deborah and some of the Ubuzima ladies. We were scouting out the competition to get new ideas for Ubuzima.
Tuesday 17th
I only have one week left in Rwanda.
What a reality check. It took me all morning to get out the house and get to church today because I knew that this would be the last time I would attend Ubuzima. I just sat on my bed, frozen in dread and unhappiness. Every time I made it as far as the door, I'd be crying before I could get my keys out the lock (it's a really difficult one). I finally made it there at one o clock, fairly composed and feigning a smile, when Jen greeted me by saying, “Only one week to go!” And I burst into tears again.
After Ubuzima I met up with Isabelle for our penultimate lesson. We were both sombre and muted, impending doom upon us.
What a reality check. It took me all morning to get out the house and get to church today because I knew that this would be the last time I would attend Ubuzima. I just sat on my bed, frozen in dread and unhappiness. Every time I made it as far as the door, I'd be crying before I could get my keys out the lock (it's a really difficult one). I finally made it there at one o clock, fairly composed and feigning a smile, when Jen greeted me by saying, “Only one week to go!” And I burst into tears again.
After Ubuzima I met up with Isabelle for our penultimate lesson. We were both sombre and muted, impending doom upon us.
Monday 16th
I taught Isabelle this morning at church. You'll be pleased to know that she's doing really well; her confidence has rocketed and her English is definitely improving. She still has a way to go but I', confident that she'll get there.
I was planning on going to Bible study tonight but I didn't quite make it there. I had been watching 24, and the time just got away from me. Before I knew it, it was 25 to 6 and I wasn't ready yet. Oh well, I thought, putting on another episode. I’ll go next week. I invited Karyn and Mike out to dinner instead, and we walked to Sole Luna. It's about a forty minute walk, but we didn't time it so I can't be sure. We ordered our food, 2 panacetta pizzas, and got to chatting. An hour later they bought out 2 mushroom pizzas, which we definitely hadn't ordered. By the time we got our food at nine thirty we were very hungry, but it was worth the wait. Sole Luna is a really nice restaurant.
It reminds me of my first year at uni. Grace and I would inevitably be late leaving for church in the evening, and our walk there always took us past a very nice pub. Let's just say that we didn't always make it as far as church!
I was planning on going to Bible study tonight but I didn't quite make it there. I had been watching 24, and the time just got away from me. Before I knew it, it was 25 to 6 and I wasn't ready yet. Oh well, I thought, putting on another episode. I’ll go next week. I invited Karyn and Mike out to dinner instead, and we walked to Sole Luna. It's about a forty minute walk, but we didn't time it so I can't be sure. We ordered our food, 2 panacetta pizzas, and got to chatting. An hour later they bought out 2 mushroom pizzas, which we definitely hadn't ordered. By the time we got our food at nine thirty we were very hungry, but it was worth the wait. Sole Luna is a really nice restaurant.
It reminds me of my first year at uni. Grace and I would inevitably be late leaving for church in the evening, and our walk there always took us past a very nice pub. Let's just say that we didn't always make it as far as church!
Sunday 15th
This afternoon Karyn and I went to Caplaki Artists Village to do what was supposed to be the last of my souvenir shopping. It was my first time there, and I’ve always been very curious to go. But I will never go again. And not just because I’m leaving Rwanda. On principal too. Remember how cross I got in Kenya when everyone was trying to charge us ridiculous prices? Well Caplaki is just like that and I wouldn't recommend going there. I went into one of the stalls to find this American woman holding a five inch beaded bowl in one hand and a wad of cash in the other. The shop owner had just told the lady that the bowl cost 80 000 rwf, which is about £80, and the American lady, in all her street saviness was about to pay up. “Hold on!” I yelled across the room. “Don't pay more than 3000!” I asked the American lady if she knew how much the currency was worth, and she said that she did and that she had calculated the bowl to cost $147. And apparently she was willing to pay it! It was the first time in 8 months in Rwanda that I’ve seen such dishonesty, and it left me reeling. Every stall we visited had hoiked the prices up ridiculously high and I was rather upset that this culture has penetrated Rwanda now too.
In protest we put our wallets away and went back to the craft market in town that we know and love. Yes, you should still haggle, but they'd never more than double the price and usually they're about spot on.
We had shopped for about 2 hours and were now very ready to drop, so we went to Shokola to meet Mike and have dinner. I'm really going to miss eating out when I get back to the UK. Not only is it way too expensive, but there is an unbelievable lack of good restaurants and coffee shops. It amazes me but in my opinion Africa is way ahead of the game in the eating out business. Yes, it can take over an hour for them to bring you a soda, and heaven forbid the food actually coming out hot, but the quality of the food is usually really good, and décor, atmosphere and originality are superb.
That evening we went to Jen's. Their rabbits had babies a few weeks ago so we went to check them out. They're so cute!
In protest we put our wallets away and went back to the craft market in town that we know and love. Yes, you should still haggle, but they'd never more than double the price and usually they're about spot on.
We had shopped for about 2 hours and were now very ready to drop, so we went to Shokola to meet Mike and have dinner. I'm really going to miss eating out when I get back to the UK. Not only is it way too expensive, but there is an unbelievable lack of good restaurants and coffee shops. It amazes me but in my opinion Africa is way ahead of the game in the eating out business. Yes, it can take over an hour for them to bring you a soda, and heaven forbid the food actually coming out hot, but the quality of the food is usually really good, and décor, atmosphere and originality are superb.
That evening we went to Jen's. Their rabbits had babies a few weeks ago so we went to check them out. They're so cute!
Saturday, 14 May 2011
Friday 13th
Today was a very good but emotional day. I’ve only got 10 days left in Rwanda so I’ve begun doing my 'lasts'. Today was my last Friday morning cooking for the street kids. It was my last time to wash up 60 plates in a small plastic basin with a piece of
a leftover rice sack to use as a cloth. The end of a very sweet 8 months.I cut paper at Ubuzima for a few hours while I watched excitedly as they prepared my leaving present, which consequently might be the nicest present I’ve ever been given. They're making me a patchwork quilt cover out of Gigtengi. What a beautiful souvenir of my time with these beautiful people. Leaving Kigali is going to be incredibly difficult for me.
At one thirty I took Isabelle to Nyabugogo market to get her some school shoes. We got a really nice paid for only £7. What a bargain.
Later that afternoon I took Kim to visit Yvette at her home. We had a great time together singing praises to God in English and Kinyarwanda. We also exchanged gifts. I gave her a black cardigan and she bought me a pair of shoes! Yvette is so incredibly generous. The shoes didn't fit my chubby feet so we went to the market in Kimikanga to change them and we picked out a pair of bright green flip flops. Score!
I’m really going to miss Yvette as well.
Thursday 12th
I’ve had a sneaking suspicion for some time now that African Tea makes me sick.
Why would I think that, you ask?
Well, immediately after I drink it, usually while I’m tutoring someone, I have to fake an important phone call and run off to the loo.
But I’ve never had enough evidence, enough hard proof that the tea was the culprit. Perhaps it was just the wrong drink at the wrong time?
But now I know for sure. It's definitely the tea. No way would I just happen, coincidentally, to get ill four times in a row after drinking it.
No, yummy, spicy tea, it's over between us. And it's not me. It's you.
Why would I think that, you ask?
Well, immediately after I drink it, usually while I’m tutoring someone, I have to fake an important phone call and run off to the loo.
But I’ve never had enough evidence, enough hard proof that the tea was the culprit. Perhaps it was just the wrong drink at the wrong time?
But now I know for sure. It's definitely the tea. No way would I just happen, coincidentally, to get ill four times in a row after drinking it.
No, yummy, spicy tea, it's over between us. And it's not me. It's you.
Wednesday 11th
I got a sneak preview today of what my return to Exeter will be like, and it wasn't a happy experience. Just as I left church it started to rain, but I was too proud and stubborn to turn back, so I just kept walking. Needless to say, all the buses were full and the taxi motos were in hiding so I stood in the rain for half an hour. Short of being in the shower, I don't think I’ve ever been so wet.
When I finally got on the bus, everyone started laughing and pointing at me because of how wet I was. All I could make out was 'muzungu' and imvura', but it was enough to upset me and, remembering all the cold, wet days I’ve had and will have in Exeter, I promptly burst into tears.
When I finally got on the bus, everyone started laughing and pointing at me because of how wet I was. All I could make out was 'muzungu' and imvura', but it was enough to upset me and, remembering all the cold, wet days I’ve had and will have in Exeter, I promptly burst into tears.
Tuesday 10th
I spent most of the day at Ubuzima. I’d forgotten how nice it is just to spend time with these precious people and make jewellery together. I’m really going to miss them.
I taught an English lesson too in the afternoon which was great. They are so eager to learn and try really hard despite the difficult pronunciation.
In the evening I had a lesson with Isabelle. I think she must have really appreciated her birthday party because she had written 'I love you Nicole' all over her exercise book. I’m gonna miss her too.
I taught an English lesson too in the afternoon which was great. They are so eager to learn and try really hard despite the difficult pronunciation.
In the evening I had a lesson with Isabelle. I think she must have really appreciated her birthday party because she had written 'I love you Nicole' all over her exercise book. I’m gonna miss her too.
Whoops, I forgot Saturday 7th!
As we were laying on the beach enjoying the sun, a crowd gathered around us and started bothering us. Beach security came over and told them to clear off, but one guy insisted that Karyn was his wife and therefore he had every right to park his soggy body on our nice dry towels. Since Karyn had been to the beach without me earlier that day I can neither confirm nor deny the validity of his statement. But I think it's probably not true.
In the afternoon we went into town in search of souvenirs and chocolate. But our first priority was lunch. We had no idea where anything was in Bujumbura but we happily stumbled across a great restaurant called Cappacinos.
After a successful trip to a craft market later that day, we realised that this would be Team Awesome's (that what we call ourselves because we're really awesome) last hurrah together in East Africa. So we pulled sad faces and took a photo to commemorate the occasion.
In the afternoon we went into town in search of souvenirs and chocolate. But our first priority was lunch. We had no idea where anything was in Bujumbura but we happily stumbled across a great restaurant called Cappacinos.
After a successful trip to a craft market later that day, we realised that this would be Team Awesome's (that what we call ourselves because we're really awesome) last hurrah together in East Africa. So we pulled sad faces and took a photo to commemorate the occasion.
Monday 9th
Well today I almost got my wish never to see a bus again. Our taxi was thirty minutes late picking us up from the hotel. His excuse? He was tired so he slept in. Unacceptable! He arrived at the hotel five minutes before the bus was due to depart. We were all hoping that the bus would leave late as as seems to be it's custom, but you can never be sure.
When we finally arrived at the bus park, it became evident that we were too late and the bus had indeed gone without us. “No problem” says the taxi guy as he puts his foot on the accelerator. At time of writing I’m feeling pretty pissed about the slow to none existent internet connection, so I’m not telling the story very well.
Anyway, we're in a dodgy taxi with a very dodgy taxi driver speeding through the town centre trying to catch the bus. After a few minutes we're right on it's tail and the problem becomes trying to get it to pull over. We're all hanging out the windows frantically waving and yelling and eventually it stops. Now comes the problem of payment.
The hotel told the driver the night before that we would pay him 10000 Burundi Francs. But then again, the driver told us he would come at 5.45 am, and he didn't. In my mind, the deal is off. He was late, we missed the bus, now he'll be lucky to get any money from us.
But he insists. He wants the full 10000. “Not a chance mate” I tell him in French. “I'll give you 5000 maximum.” This is more than fair, as it's enough to cover costs and still make a profit. I explained to him why I couldn't give him the full amount. “You were 30 minutes late. We missed the bus! Had you not caught up with it we'd have given you nothing. So really you should be grateful.” But the taxi driver, who was the size of Dave Brookchild, disagreed and followed us onto the bus. The bus conductor joined in the argument. “You have to give him more money” he says. Not a chance. So he insists on talking first to Karyn and then to Mike. They must look more generous than me. “They don't speak French mate. You have no choice but to deal with me.”
After another tens minutes of this I grew tired and gave him another 2000. It was enough to make him leave. And we were on our way home.
Here is a picture of the beautiful Burundi countryside.
When we finally arrived at the bus park, it became evident that we were too late and the bus had indeed gone without us. “No problem” says the taxi guy as he puts his foot on the accelerator. At time of writing I’m feeling pretty pissed about the slow to none existent internet connection, so I’m not telling the story very well.
Anyway, we're in a dodgy taxi with a very dodgy taxi driver speeding through the town centre trying to catch the bus. After a few minutes we're right on it's tail and the problem becomes trying to get it to pull over. We're all hanging out the windows frantically waving and yelling and eventually it stops. Now comes the problem of payment.
The hotel told the driver the night before that we would pay him 10000 Burundi Francs. But then again, the driver told us he would come at 5.45 am, and he didn't. In my mind, the deal is off. He was late, we missed the bus, now he'll be lucky to get any money from us.
But he insists. He wants the full 10000. “Not a chance mate” I tell him in French. “I'll give you 5000 maximum.” This is more than fair, as it's enough to cover costs and still make a profit. I explained to him why I couldn't give him the full amount. “You were 30 minutes late. We missed the bus! Had you not caught up with it we'd have given you nothing. So really you should be grateful.” But the taxi driver, who was the size of Dave Brookchild, disagreed and followed us onto the bus. The bus conductor joined in the argument. “You have to give him more money” he says. Not a chance. So he insists on talking first to Karyn and then to Mike. They must look more generous than me. “They don't speak French mate. You have no choice but to deal with me.”
After another tens minutes of this I grew tired and gave him another 2000. It was enough to make him leave. And we were on our way home.
Here is a picture of the beautiful Burundi countryside.
Sunday 8th
We spent the day relaxing at the beach. Relaxing/getting frustrated. I find laying on the beach the most boring thing to do ever. I read my book for an hour and a half, but it's about the history of terrorism since the 10th Century so there's only so much you can read before your brain turns to mush.
The highlight of my day was seeing Mike's sunburnt legs, which conveniently matched the colours of his Tshirt.
That afternoon we went swimming in Lake Tanganyika. I’ve heard rumours about crocs and hippos, but the waiter at the hotel said there were only a few, so we took our chances and went in. I always forget how nice it is to swim in fresh water. The waves were pretty big and kept going right over our heads but it didn't matter because fresh water doesn't hurt your eyes. It was really fun.
In the evening we walked down the beach to a great restaurant on stilts over the lake. I felt a bit nervous about the rickety, rotted wooden planks being the only thing between me and the crocodiles but they held out and we all survived.
A toast to Team Awesome! Don't worry Serge, it's just pineapple juice!
(All the good photos are by Karyn Makins)
The highlight of my day was seeing Mike's sunburnt legs, which conveniently matched the colours of his Tshirt.
That afternoon we went swimming in Lake Tanganyika. I’ve heard rumours about crocs and hippos, but the waiter at the hotel said there were only a few, so we took our chances and went in. I always forget how nice it is to swim in fresh water. The waves were pretty big and kept going right over our heads but it didn't matter because fresh water doesn't hurt your eyes. It was really fun.
In the evening we walked down the beach to a great restaurant on stilts over the lake. I felt a bit nervous about the rickety, rotted wooden planks being the only thing between me and the crocodiles but they held out and we all survived.
A toast to Team Awesome! Don't worry Serge, it's just pineapple juice!
(All the good photos are by Karyn Makins)
Friday 6th
As if we've not done enough bus travel over the last few weeks, we decided that while we're here we really ought to go to Burundi as well. It's not that I didn't want to go, or that I don't appreciate the amazing opportunities I’ve had here, it's just that I’m feeling a bit jaded and it would be nice to stay in one place for more than four days. But its only supposed to take five hours to get to the capital Bujumbura, so it shouldn't be too bad.
Five hours my arse. It took us seven and a half hours to get there and I was consequently two and a half hours more grumpy than I should have been. If I never see a bus again it will be too soon.
But when we arrived at the hotel and sat by the beach drinking pineapple juice, the world was set to rights again and I could relax.
That night as we were going to bed, I heard Mike yelling so I went into his room to investigate. Sure enough there was a scorpion in his shower. Brilliant. So we'll all be using the bug nets tonight.
Five hours my arse. It took us seven and a half hours to get there and I was consequently two and a half hours more grumpy than I should have been. If I never see a bus again it will be too soon.
But when we arrived at the hotel and sat by the beach drinking pineapple juice, the world was set to rights again and I could relax.
We rented a holiday house for the weekend between the three of us and it worked out really cheap. The fully equipped kitchen was really only partially equipped in that all it boasted was three glasses. Meal times were interesting to say the least.
That night as we were going to bed, I heard Mike yelling so I went into his room to investigate. Sure enough there was a scorpion in his shower. Brilliant. So we'll all be using the bug nets tonight.
Wednesday 4th
Today was our second attempt to get into DRCongo. Only this time we were better prepared. Serge had arranged for one of his cousins to help us cross the border and give us a tour of Goma, but in the end it didn't help much. He met us at the border and said that immigration was demanding $280 per person. That was WAY more than we had budgeted. After a heated discussion he said he reckoned he could get us in for $50 apiece, but he doubted he could get us out again.
It made me realise how fortunate me and Suz were last time we tried, because technically we were in Congo with no money, no Swahili and no reason for them to let us leave. And there was another incident that we won't talk about on the internet. Thank you Jesus for keeping us safe.
We chilled in Gisenyi for the afternoon before getting the bus home. That was seven hours travelling for nothing. I felt a bit cross.
It made me realise how fortunate me and Suz were last time we tried, because technically we were in Congo with no money, no Swahili and no reason for them to let us leave. And there was another incident that we won't talk about on the internet. Thank you Jesus for keeping us safe.
We chilled in Gisenyi for the afternoon before getting the bus home. That was seven hours travelling for nothing. I felt a bit cross.
Tuesday 3rd
Today was Isabelle's 18th birthday. I had a lesson with her at 5pm, and then took her to Shokola for a surprise party. Myself, Karyn and Kim were there along with Isabelle and her foster mother Josienne. We had a lovely evening together. Isabelle really enjoyed her dinner and the chocolate cake we bought her as well as all her gifts. It was a real privilege to have this time with her and spoil her a bit.
Sunday 1st
The preacher spoke about the sheep and the goats this morning. Now that I have one, I can understand why the goats go to hell.
Saturday 30th
It's three am and I can hear something moving about in my room. I’ve been away for two weeks and really should have given the room a once over for uninvited guests. But last night I was so tired that I had barely changed into my pyjamas before crawling into bed.
I quickly untangled myself from my mossie net and leapt across the room to put the light on. A quick glance around told me that no one had broken in. Again I hear the noise, and 'BAM!' the power cuts and the light goes out. Crapos.
I jump back into bed, assuming that the creature is still at ground level. I frantically searched for my phone, but found my ipod instead. It shed enough light for me to find my head lamp and I cautiously began my investigation. Rat, snake, tarantula? Maybe something even worse?
In the end I found a large cockroach scaling the heights of a brown paper bag. I promptly caught it, took it into the lounge and labelled it 'igisimba kinini', which means 'large insect'.
Then I went back to bed.
It's now the afternoon. I just went to rescue my goat from a very large thunder storm, but as I stood at the door zipping up my bright green raincoat, I remembered what happened last time I took such an altruistic action towards the goat and I reconsidered my plan. 'He'll be OK', I thought to myself, as I watched him from a safe and dry distance.
I hope he's OK.
I’m sitting in the lounge blogging, waiting for the power to cut out. It sucks that you can have giant ants crawling all over you when you're indoors.
To my left there is a growing pile of ant corpses.
I don't have a problem with nature, but when it comes into my house it has to play by my rules, and ultimately, that means death.
OK, that was the power. It's pitch back and very creepy. I’m going to find my headlamp now.
I quickly untangled myself from my mossie net and leapt across the room to put the light on. A quick glance around told me that no one had broken in. Again I hear the noise, and 'BAM!' the power cuts and the light goes out. Crapos.
I jump back into bed, assuming that the creature is still at ground level. I frantically searched for my phone, but found my ipod instead. It shed enough light for me to find my head lamp and I cautiously began my investigation. Rat, snake, tarantula? Maybe something even worse?
In the end I found a large cockroach scaling the heights of a brown paper bag. I promptly caught it, took it into the lounge and labelled it 'igisimba kinini', which means 'large insect'.
Then I went back to bed.
It's now the afternoon. I just went to rescue my goat from a very large thunder storm, but as I stood at the door zipping up my bright green raincoat, I remembered what happened last time I took such an altruistic action towards the goat and I reconsidered my plan. 'He'll be OK', I thought to myself, as I watched him from a safe and dry distance.
I hope he's OK.
I’m sitting in the lounge blogging, waiting for the power to cut out. It sucks that you can have giant ants crawling all over you when you're indoors.
To my left there is a growing pile of ant corpses.
I don't have a problem with nature, but when it comes into my house it has to play by my rules, and ultimately, that means death.
OK, that was the power. It's pitch back and very creepy. I’m going to find my headlamp now.
Friday 29th
I got home just as Kate was getting out the car, so I legged it across the lawn with all my stuff, whipped out four flags and got celebrating with the other interns. I didn't think that I would make it in time but I got to see the whole ceremony. Well done DSTV!
As I went to bed tonight I felt very aware of the all the noises that over the past seven months I had become quite accustomed to; crickets singing, people chatting excitedly, army helicopters hovering metres from my house. But tonight I could hear them all and I felt somewhat unnerved.
As I went to bed tonight I felt very aware of the all the noises that over the past seven months I had become quite accustomed to; crickets singing, people chatting excitedly, army helicopters hovering metres from my house. But tonight I could hear them all and I felt somewhat unnerved.
Monday 25th - Thursday 28th
I was in the UK for four days to attend my grandmothers funeral. It was really nice to see family and friends again and we had a very special time together celebrating my grandmothers life. Flying into the UK the week of the Royal Wedding proved to be incredibly expensive, but praise Jesus because my insurance covered it and we only had to pay the £50 excess. What a blessing.
On Monday evening Corinne came for dinner. We had brownies, ice cream, strawberries and chocolate sauce. Mm mm.
My other grandparents came for lunch on Tuesday and it was lovely to spend the afternoon with them. (Thank you for your contribution to my Easter Egg fund).
At the airport on Thursday I felt very forlorn about missing the Royal Wedding.
In the night I felt sure that I could feel DVT setting in, but apparently you either don't have it or you're dead.
On Monday evening Corinne came for dinner. We had brownies, ice cream, strawberries and chocolate sauce. Mm mm.
My other grandparents came for lunch on Tuesday and it was lovely to spend the afternoon with them. (Thank you for your contribution to my Easter Egg fund).
At the airport on Thursday I felt very forlorn about missing the Royal Wedding.
In the night I felt sure that I could feel DVT setting in, but apparently you either don't have it or you're dead.
Sunday 24th
This evening I’m flying back to the UK for my grandmother's funeral. I didn't have a chance for breakfast of dinner, so I was feeling a bit shaky. I got to the airport with two suitcases and my rucksack. Oh, the joys of travelling alone. The wheels on the suitcases weren't cooperating, so I had to drag them along behind me. I must have looked a real state. At the check in desk the woman insisted that I join the frequent flyer club and I didn't have the energy to resist. But my hands were so shaky that my handwriting was illegible.
I went upstairs to the waiting lounge and tried to find something for dinner. Everything in the restaurant was ridiculously overpriced so I tried the Duty Free shop. Maltesers! I didn't know you could get them in Rwanda. And for only six dollars. What a bargain. With dinner sorted I sat and waited for my plane.
Now I don't tend to have the best luck on public transport. The woman in front of me put her chair down to the horizontal position so that she could sleep. Not having much room now I did the same, but the guy behind me didn't appreciate it. So he yelled at me for about 5 minutes about how selfish I am. I was so tired from all the travelling and upset about my grandmother that I put my chair up, wrapped my pashmina over my head and burst into tears.
And I was dehydrated. Imagine. I’ve been on the bus for over a week now, not knowing when I’ll have access to a toilet. It's thirty degrees but I’ve not been drinking. And you're not allowed to take water onto the plane. So every tens minutes I go to the back of the plane to get a couple of those little sealed plastic water cups. At about 2 am I went back to my seat with the cups, put them down and scooched over. But clumsy as I am, I fell and landed butt first on the water. So I sat in the wet until morning. Sucky.
I went upstairs to the waiting lounge and tried to find something for dinner. Everything in the restaurant was ridiculously overpriced so I tried the Duty Free shop. Maltesers! I didn't know you could get them in Rwanda. And for only six dollars. What a bargain. With dinner sorted I sat and waited for my plane.
Now I don't tend to have the best luck on public transport. The woman in front of me put her chair down to the horizontal position so that she could sleep. Not having much room now I did the same, but the guy behind me didn't appreciate it. So he yelled at me for about 5 minutes about how selfish I am. I was so tired from all the travelling and upset about my grandmother that I put my chair up, wrapped my pashmina over my head and burst into tears.
And I was dehydrated. Imagine. I’ve been on the bus for over a week now, not knowing when I’ll have access to a toilet. It's thirty degrees but I’ve not been drinking. And you're not allowed to take water onto the plane. So every tens minutes I go to the back of the plane to get a couple of those little sealed plastic water cups. At about 2 am I went back to my seat with the cups, put them down and scooched over. But clumsy as I am, I fell and landed butt first on the water. So I sat in the wet until morning. Sucky.
Saturday 23rd
It's 2 am and Mike and I are sitting next to each other. It's hot on the bus, the seats are small and neither of us are skinny. “Mike, a little friendly advice. If your arm comes on my side of the seat one more time, I will get violent. You have been warned.” “OK Nicole”, he whispered, slowly shifting away from me.
At about 4.30 this morning we arrived at the Ugandan border. We were all fast asleep when we got there, so it was a bit of a shock to the system to get up so quickly and go through immigration. We're standing in the office waiting to buy our visas, when we hear singing in the background. Mike, not knowing what it is, pipes up with his assessment of the situation. “It sounds like a goafer call. GOOOEEAARRR! GOOOEEAARRR!”, at the top of his voice, in a room full of Muslims. It was the call to prayer.
Classic.
Back on the bus for another 16 hours.
We got home at about 8.30 pm exhausted and irritable. The total travel time was 39 hours.
Before leaving the UK I thought that long bus journeys across East Africa were all part of the adventure. Well that's one adventure I’d be happy never to have again. I want to travel but not like that. Buses and economy class flights are absolutely out. I need to get me a private jet.
At about 4.30 this morning we arrived at the Ugandan border. We were all fast asleep when we got there, so it was a bit of a shock to the system to get up so quickly and go through immigration. We're standing in the office waiting to buy our visas, when we hear singing in the background. Mike, not knowing what it is, pipes up with his assessment of the situation. “It sounds like a goafer call. GOOOEEAARRR! GOOOEEAARRR!”, at the top of his voice, in a room full of Muslims. It was the call to prayer.
Classic.
Back on the bus for another 16 hours.
We got home at about 8.30 pm exhausted and irritable. The total travel time was 39 hours.
Before leaving the UK I thought that long bus journeys across East Africa were all part of the adventure. Well that's one adventure I’d be happy never to have again. I want to travel but not like that. Buses and economy class flights are absolutely out. I need to get me a private jet.
Friday 22nd
Today marks the start of our epic journey home. We're expecting it to take around 38 hours and i'm really not looking forward to it much. Our guides dropped us off in town at 6AM where we waited for the bus. Anticipating our sunburn we had specifically asked for window seats, but when we sat down and tried to open the window it was clear that it had been glued shut. It must have been forty degrees on the bus, and my face, shoulders, back, chest, knees and backs of my legs were severely burnt. It's possible that I may have forgotten to use suncream yesterday. Anyway, after 5 minutes I thought I was going to pass out. I no doubt had sunstroke and sweat was literally pouring off us like salty waterfalls.
After a few minutes of what felt like torture I moved to the back of the bus to find an empty seat and an open window. Of the six I checked only one could be opened, so that's the one I sat by. Karyn and Mike quickly joined me. Despite the horrendous heat of equatorial Africa, it would not surprise me if all the windows on every vehicle were glued shut, as the people here seem to be immune to the heat. I don't think I’ve ever seen anyone voluntarily open a window.
The roads in Kenya are pretty bad so progress was slow. We eventually arrived in Nairobi at about 4.30pm but had 2 hours to kill before getting the connection to Kampala. We thought it would be best to try and find a restaurant to wait in rather than sitting by the side of the road, so I left Mike and Karyn with the luggage and went a wandering.
Nairobi is rather like London; the buildings are tall and grey, the roads are busy and it's impossible to find anything. After about twenty minutes, having found nothing of interest and fearing that my navigational skills might not be up be getting me back to the bus stop, I headed back. On the way I checked out a hotel restaurant and decided to fetch the others.
After dinner, we returned to the bus stop to find that our bus was not there, and no one could tell us anything of use. “Yes, it's coming” said the guy at the desk. Yeah, like I believe that. We sat with all our luggage by the side of the road in the dark, literally and metaphorically, at the mercy of the Africa bus system.
Three hours later at 10 o clock the bus shows and we can all breath a sigh of relief.
After a few minutes of what felt like torture I moved to the back of the bus to find an empty seat and an open window. Of the six I checked only one could be opened, so that's the one I sat by. Karyn and Mike quickly joined me. Despite the horrendous heat of equatorial Africa, it would not surprise me if all the windows on every vehicle were glued shut, as the people here seem to be immune to the heat. I don't think I’ve ever seen anyone voluntarily open a window.
The roads in Kenya are pretty bad so progress was slow. We eventually arrived in Nairobi at about 4.30pm but had 2 hours to kill before getting the connection to Kampala. We thought it would be best to try and find a restaurant to wait in rather than sitting by the side of the road, so I left Mike and Karyn with the luggage and went a wandering.
Nairobi is rather like London; the buildings are tall and grey, the roads are busy and it's impossible to find anything. After about twenty minutes, having found nothing of interest and fearing that my navigational skills might not be up be getting me back to the bus stop, I headed back. On the way I checked out a hotel restaurant and decided to fetch the others.
After dinner, we returned to the bus stop to find that our bus was not there, and no one could tell us anything of use. “Yes, it's coming” said the guy at the desk. Yeah, like I believe that. We sat with all our luggage by the side of the road in the dark, literally and metaphorically, at the mercy of the Africa bus system.
Three hours later at 10 o clock the bus shows and we can all breath a sigh of relief.
Thursday 21st
We sat by the pool for a while this morning but i get bored very quickly so I had to get up and do something. Our cheapest option seemed to be the sea safari, in which you walk out into the reef at low tide and look for small sea creatures. (Mike and I decided that in order to save money we didn't need a guide,) and we waded out into the ocean.
I tried to do some shopping with Karyn to get some souvenirs, but the beach vendors made the experience horrible.
I feel in Rwanda that people shouldn't rip us off because we live there. We are giving our time and resources to invest in the people and the country. Furthermore we know how much things should cost and therefore we know when we're being ripped off. Most people quickly realize that you you can't be taken advantage of, especially when you speak to them in Kinyarwanda. But some people still insist on trying to trick us out of our hard earned cash, and it gets really annoying. But I have always conceded that they should go for it with the tourists. After all, tourists are there to spend foreign money and boost the economy.
Boy was it hard making the transition from seasoned resident to 'don't have a clue how much this currency is worth' tourist. And it being the beach front, the vendors were used to dealing only with fresh off the plane tourists. So every time we went to buy something they'd start with a ridiculously high price, for example $60 for a $5 necklace. It was exhausting! By the time you'd figured out how little they were willing to accept, you were so tired that you didn't want the damn thing any more. After an hour of shopping I walked away with nothing more than a headache, severe sunburn and a deeply furrowed brow.
In the afternoon a couple of local guys took us to feed some more monkeys.
But the guides came running after us and explained that if we went alone we would get injured because we'd tread on things that ought not to be trodden on. And it was a good job too because all around our feet were black sea urchins that looked rather prickly. With the guides help we avoided injury and saw fish, urchins, anenomies, corals and sea cucumbers. It wasn't massively exhilarating but it was a pleasant way to spend the morning and we had fun.
I tried to do some shopping with Karyn to get some souvenirs, but the beach vendors made the experience horrible.
I feel in Rwanda that people shouldn't rip us off because we live there. We are giving our time and resources to invest in the people and the country. Furthermore we know how much things should cost and therefore we know when we're being ripped off. Most people quickly realize that you you can't be taken advantage of, especially when you speak to them in Kinyarwanda. But some people still insist on trying to trick us out of our hard earned cash, and it gets really annoying. But I have always conceded that they should go for it with the tourists. After all, tourists are there to spend foreign money and boost the economy.
Boy was it hard making the transition from seasoned resident to 'don't have a clue how much this currency is worth' tourist. And it being the beach front, the vendors were used to dealing only with fresh off the plane tourists. So every time we went to buy something they'd start with a ridiculously high price, for example $60 for a $5 necklace. It was exhausting! By the time you'd figured out how little they were willing to accept, you were so tired that you didn't want the damn thing any more. After an hour of shopping I walked away with nothing more than a headache, severe sunburn and a deeply furrowed brow.
In the afternoon a couple of local guys took us to feed some more monkeys.
It will be little things like this that I miss when I go back to the UK. Listening to the crickets at night. The geckos running up the walls. Having no hot running water. Oh wait, I won't miss that.
Wednesday 20th
Today was a proper African day. We'd met a couple of Somali guys on the beach the day before who'd appointed themselves as our official tour guides. Today they arranged for us to go on safari, so we drove three hours into the bush. Just as we arrived at the game park, I asked about the availability of certain facilities that one might need to use after a three hour drive. "No." He said, "but there are plenty of bushes along the road. It's better to go here because there are no lions. Inside the park there are no guarantees." Great.
So I walk a few metres away from the car and prepare myself for the rural peeing experience. I took off my pashmina so that I could wrap it around myself to give at least a little privacy, but it being me, things did not end end well. The trees I had chosen for cover turned out to be African thorn trees. I'd never gotten this close to them before but it turns out that those thorns are pretty menacing. Within seconds my pashmina was strung up all round the tree, entangled in the thorny branches. I called Karyn over for help, and she insisted that I not be deterred from my peeing mission. So I took a few steps to the left to get a bit of privacy from Karyn, got into position and dropped my trousers. But when Karyn had freed up my pashmina she started walking over to me. Naturally I backed up into the tree to give myself some room. Ouch. As I feel the thorns break sensitive butt tissue, I panic and start to wriggle. Within seconds I am completely pinned up on the tree, trousers, pants, body and all. Of course after this I was completely unable to pee and had to endure a three hour safari on bumpy dirt roads with a full bladder. It wasn't my finest hour.
The safari itself was like any other I've done, except that all the animals were bright orange. It must have been something in the water. Orange elephants. Orange zebras. Orange giraffes. Although i think they're supposed to be around that colour.
The afternoon was my highlight. We went to visit a Masai village, which is something i've wanted to do for a long time. First off we met the chief. He was an elderly man with nine wives, forty five children and countless grandchildren. His family comprised the whole village. Christmas must be horrendous.
But not even I could contest that the kids looked really cute in their little Masai robes, with their little Masai bottoms exposed for the world to see.
Best of all the village performed a traditional dance for us, and invited us to join in. What an experience!
So I walk a few metres away from the car and prepare myself for the rural peeing experience. I took off my pashmina so that I could wrap it around myself to give at least a little privacy, but it being me, things did not end end well. The trees I had chosen for cover turned out to be African thorn trees. I'd never gotten this close to them before but it turns out that those thorns are pretty menacing. Within seconds my pashmina was strung up all round the tree, entangled in the thorny branches. I called Karyn over for help, and she insisted that I not be deterred from my peeing mission. So I took a few steps to the left to get a bit of privacy from Karyn, got into position and dropped my trousers. But when Karyn had freed up my pashmina she started walking over to me. Naturally I backed up into the tree to give myself some room. Ouch. As I feel the thorns break sensitive butt tissue, I panic and start to wriggle. Within seconds I am completely pinned up on the tree, trousers, pants, body and all. Of course after this I was completely unable to pee and had to endure a three hour safari on bumpy dirt roads with a full bladder. It wasn't my finest hour.
The safari itself was like any other I've done, except that all the animals were bright orange. It must have been something in the water. Orange elephants. Orange zebras. Orange giraffes. Although i think they're supposed to be around that colour.
The afternoon was my highlight. We went to visit a Masai village, which is something i've wanted to do for a long time. First off we met the chief. He was an elderly man with nine wives, forty five children and countless grandchildren. His family comprised the whole village. Christmas must be horrendous.
But not even I could contest that the kids looked really cute in their little Masai robes, with their little Masai bottoms exposed for the world to see.
Best of all the village performed a traditional dance for us, and invited us to join in. What an experience!
Tuesday 19th
We arrived in Mombasa at 6.30 AM. Honestly, since being in East Africa I've smelt the strangest smells of my life. And I didn't made any of them. Generally in the countryside it's alright, but as you drive through towns or cities you catch the most awe inspiring whiffs of nastiness. Your mind immediately begins to wonder what hellish ingredients went into making such a profoundly repugnant smell, but you must fight to control your curiosity, for knowing the truth would undoubtedly drive you to hold your breath until the smell passes, and that would more often than not end in death by voluntary suffocation. (I just read this to my housemates and they didn't laugh. But i'm pretty sure it's funny because I wrote it).
By the time we got to the hotel we were knackered, so we checked in and slept till lunchtime.
That afternoon as we sat by the pool, several camels passed by on the beach. Karyn had never seen a camel before so we decided to investigate. I asked a guy at the hotel how to arrange a ride and he said "just ask the african guy standing by the camel if you can have a go on it." The romantic in me liked to think that the average Kenyan travelled around all day on top of these toothy beasts, and that we would would just be asking a commuter to catch a lift with him on his way to work. Of course this was made less likely by the fact that we were at a beach resort on the edge of a thriving trade town, not in the middle of the Syrian desert. True to form the camels were with their money grabbing handlers, men more adept at ripping off tourists than understanding the subtle nuances of desert survival. But tourists we were and shell out we did and it was totally worth it. Not because camel travel is particularly exciting, but because it made us feel like we were on holiday and we got some awesome photos.
We got a really good deal on the hotel, about 26 pounds a night including buffet breakfast and dinner. And the food was great, with three of four meat dishes, curries and vegetables and a whole fish.
Well fed and content, we slept very nicely.
By the time we got to the hotel we were knackered, so we checked in and slept till lunchtime.
That afternoon as we sat by the pool, several camels passed by on the beach. Karyn had never seen a camel before so we decided to investigate. I asked a guy at the hotel how to arrange a ride and he said "just ask the african guy standing by the camel if you can have a go on it." The romantic in me liked to think that the average Kenyan travelled around all day on top of these toothy beasts, and that we would would just be asking a commuter to catch a lift with him on his way to work. Of course this was made less likely by the fact that we were at a beach resort on the edge of a thriving trade town, not in the middle of the Syrian desert. True to form the camels were with their money grabbing handlers, men more adept at ripping off tourists than understanding the subtle nuances of desert survival. But tourists we were and shell out we did and it was totally worth it. Not because camel travel is particularly exciting, but because it made us feel like we were on holiday and we got some awesome photos.
On the beach we met a Masai guy called Lenny who, like everyone else on the beach, insisted that we buy something in his shop. Seeing a photo opportunity, we willingly obliged.
And apparently Tesco has expanded it's borders and opened up a metro store in Mombasa. I think i'll apply for a transfer!
We got a really good deal on the hotel, about 26 pounds a night including buffet breakfast and dinner. And the food was great, with three of four meat dishes, curries and vegetables and a whole fish.
Well fed and content, we slept very nicely.
Monday, 9 May 2011
Monday 18th
We left Entebbe early, I think at 5.30 am. The sun came up as we entered Kampala for one of the most spectacular sunrises I’ve ever seen.
John took us to Akamba bus park and we said our goodbyes.
The bus journey to Nairobi was 13 hours. We arrived at 8.30 pm.
The bus journey to Mombasa was 10 hours. We arrived at 6.30 am.
I’m sorry, is this boring you?
Well it bored me too! I cannot explain to you how gruelling it is to be on a bus for this amount of time. Let me explain.
The the buses themselves are fairly nice. It's everything else that is a problem. As you enter the bus you encounter the overwhelming stench of smelly feet, body odour and baby vomit/poo. But after a few minutes your own stink is added to the mix and you can barely smell it any more.
Why do you smell, you ask? You smell because its thirty degrees outside, probably hotter inside, and everyone insists on having the windows closed! Oh my word. It's so hot that the sweat literally pours off you. And even when you do open the windows, it's not a cool, refreshing breeze that finds you but a thick, heavy blanket of pollution.
John took us to Akamba bus park and we said our goodbyes.
The bus journey to Nairobi was 13 hours. We arrived at 8.30 pm.
The bus journey to Mombasa was 10 hours. We arrived at 6.30 am.
I’m sorry, is this boring you?
Well it bored me too! I cannot explain to you how gruelling it is to be on a bus for this amount of time. Let me explain.
The the buses themselves are fairly nice. It's everything else that is a problem. As you enter the bus you encounter the overwhelming stench of smelly feet, body odour and baby vomit/poo. But after a few minutes your own stink is added to the mix and you can barely smell it any more.
Why do you smell, you ask? You smell because its thirty degrees outside, probably hotter inside, and everyone insists on having the windows closed! Oh my word. It's so hot that the sweat literally pours off you. And even when you do open the windows, it's not a cool, refreshing breeze that finds you but a thick, heavy blanket of pollution.
The overnight trip from Nairobi to Mombasa was the worst. Every few seconds there was a loud high pitch beeping sound which could be heard over the top of my full volume ipod. In between beeps, you could hear the shrill cry of a baby, which judging by the smell, was sitting in it's own filth. So we had 'beep, mwaaah! beep mwaaah!' the whole night long. And it was so hot on the bus that despite it being about 27 degrees outside, there was still condensation on the windows. That's crazy.
And it's not like there's much to do on the bus. Other than watching the odd episode of 24 on Mike's laptop, the most entertaining occurrence happened during a loo break at a petrol station. We'd been to the toilet and decided to buy a drink quickly before getting back on the bus. As we're ordering the drinks, I see the bus slowly pull out of the services. “I wonder where the bus is going?” I ask the others. I decided to go and check it out but as I approached the bus it speeded up. Yeah, so it was leaving without us. We were in the middle of nowhere in Kenya, and our bus was taking off with all our luggage on it. I chased after it, furiously banging my fists on the sides of the bus, and eventually it stopped. As soon as I get on, the driver pulls off again. “But what about my friends?” I plead. “Oh. Do you want me to wait for them?” asks the driver. It was flipping ridiculous.
Monday, 2 May 2011
Sunday 17th
Today was Palm Sunday, so we went with Faith's family to church. It was an Anglican church packed full of people, waving their palm branches and signing hymns. Bizzarest thing ever hearing the sounds of a rural English village in the heart of Africa.
Our goal for the day was twofold; to see monkeys and go fishing in Lake Victoria. We achieved both of these and had ourselves a very nice day.
Now in order to guarantee a monkey encounter, my initial plan was to smother my face and arms in peanut butter. Mike agreed that this was our best option. Faith's brothers, however, did not think this was a very good idea, so we settled on buying a bag of peanuts instead. It was a much less messy option and it still still yielded results.
Our goal for the day was twofold; to see monkeys and go fishing in Lake Victoria. We achieved both of these and had ourselves a very nice day.
Now in order to guarantee a monkey encounter, my initial plan was to smother my face and arms in peanut butter. Mike agreed that this was our best option. Faith's brothers, however, did not think this was a very good idea, so we settled on buying a bag of peanuts instead. It was a much less messy option and it still still yielded results.
As we were walking around, I saw a massive spider at knee height. I went to take a photo when John came with some friendly advice. “You'd get a much better shot of the ones above your head”. My heart sank. Sure enough I looked up and the canopy was full of them. I quickly checked my body to make sure that there were none on me and then gave instructions. “If you see one one me, get it off and kill it! No wait, make sure you take a photo first.”
Apart from the odd tarantula on YOT, and some stunningly large and colourful spiders I saw in Japan, the spiders in Entebbe were the most terrifying and dangerous I’ve ever encountered. John said that without treatment a bite would kill you within a day. Arrggh!
Early evening we went down to Lake Victoria to get some fish. It's much more labour intensive than popping into a supermarket. Stomach turning memories of tombstoning in Cornwall came flooding back to me as casting off bought me precariously close to the edge.
We didn't catch anything, but the guy next to us let us borrow one of his fish to pose some photos. But honestly it was so small that I’m not sure it does us any favours.
Faith's mum had pre-empted out dismal failure and taken us to the market earlier that day to buy fish.
She said I could choose any one I liked, and I picked the Nile Perch. So when we got home that night she had everything ready so that we could cook it together.
Karyn joined us that night in Entebbe, because tomorrow morning we're off to Mombasa Kenya for the next part of our adventure.
It was a real blessing to get to know Faith's family. They are really sweet people and they spoilt us the whole weekend. So a very big thank you to them all!
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