Thursday 30th

I was woken up by a goat this morning. It's lost is baby and has been wandering round the neighbourhood all morning trying to find it. I think I would have felt more compassion had it come a bit later in the day.

This morning I wanted to sit outside to study but I couldn't because it was too hot. But I did find an injured ant which was good because it meant I could take a photo of it. The ants themselves are about the size of a small dog. Normally they are really fast and angry and aggressive, but this one was afflicted so I saw my chance and took it. I also prodded it with a biro for a while to get my own back. Because friends and countrymen, I think this is what has been attacking me. My arms, feet and legs are covered in bites, some the size of footballs, and they are itchy. I can't sleep. I can't concentrate. I can't eat. Well, that last bits not true, but the other two are. I think they're driver ants and I don't like them. And, they're not deterred by my £8 a tiny bottle of tropical strength, wipes out small villages Jungle Formula. If anyone has any ideas as to how to beat them, please let me know.


Oh, the poor goat is still here! Is half twelve and its still looking for its baby. Its just bleeting like its hearts been ripped out. It sounds so distressed. I don't know how much more of this I can take!

Wednesday 29th

In the morning I went to the Iteams office to catalogue all the donations they've received for the past few years. The bike guy dropped me in the right area but at the wrong office, and while I was waiting for Jen to come and find me, I fell down a storm drain. It only hurt my pride.

At the office there are two rooms chock a block full of resources, one with clothes, the other with stationary and other supplies. I worked for two hours but didn't make much of a dent.

In the afternoon I went to Enoch's house. Again, I went by bike, and this guy took me to completely the wrong place. See, I don't know where anything is, so you just have to trust that they take you to the right place! I got there in the end, after Enoch gave directions to a different bike guy by phone. His house had just been burgled the night before, and they literally took everything. Clothes, furniture, mattress! So we sat on the floor in an empty room and had lunch.

Then I went for my first Kinyarwanda lesson. It took us about an hour to get through all the different consonant groups (pictured). For example, 'nshyw' is pronounced 'n chu gwa' and 'mw' is pronounced 'mun ga'. And there are 61 consonant groups to learn! Its hard to believe that there are words spelt with 'nshyw' in the middle of them, but Silas my teacher assures me there are.

Then I stayed at church for some good old fashioned Kinyarwanda praise and worship. I'm getting quite good at it now ;)

Tuesday 28th

I am such a chicken!
Basically, there are four ways for me to get around Kigali, by foot, bus, taxi or motorbike taxi.

Foot is fine in the few flat areas, but the hills are long, steep and many, so you can't get very far very fast, especially in this heat (its about 28 degrees and everyone thinks its freezing).

I don't have a clue how the buses work, or as of yet anyone to show me.
And the taxis are really expensive (I've spend £30 in 2 weeks).

So that just leaves the motorbikes.

I’ve been putting it off since I got here. You have to understand that the traffic here isn't like it is in England. Its chaos. There are vehicles, pedestrians and goats everywhere. But the bikes are so cheap, even with inflated muzungu prices, so it had to be done. And today was the day. I was ready at 10am, but it took an extra hour and a half of psyching myself up before I could leave. As soon as you get on the main road, you can hail a bike. They bib you as they drive past, and stop if you nod your head or wave. Well I walked along the main road for 20 minutes before I plucked up the courage to hail a bike. It was probably the fortieth one to pass me! And I'm thinking to myself, 'If you can throw yourself out of a plane, you can get on a motorbike. But I’m telling you, it was so much fun. They dodge in and out of the traffic, and go really fast – I like it. So now i'm able to get around Kigali.

My first trip was into town. I bought a couple of books at the supermarket, one about the war in the Congo and Sun Tzu's 'The Art of War'. They had such an interesting selection of books. I was really impressed. I don't like reading that much but there were loads that I wanted to buy. But you're restricted by how much cash you have on you – there's no credit/debits cards here or ATMs.

Then I took myself out for lunch at Bourbon's, which is a really nice restaurant, usually packed full of muzungus and their laptops. I had a cheeseburger with chips and a fanta for about £4.50, which is quite expensive here. And I read The Art of War. Its really good.

Then I went to the Ubuzima general meeting in the afternoon. The people are so lovely, mainly widows I think, and mostly HIV aids sufferers. We prayed and praised together in Kinyarwanda, then continued to make beads for the jewellery to be sold in Canada.

This is Mamma Deborah and the lady that teaches beading.

Monday 27th

Part of my job here is to tutor a girl called Isabelle. She's had a pretty rough start in life – you can't hear her story and not be moved to tears, but she wants to move on now and prepare for the future. She hasn't been to school for a few years, but will start again in Janurary. To make things complicated, the school system just swapped from French to English, so she has to learn a whole new set of vocabulary. Even the alphabet was a source of confusion, as letters are pronounced differently in French. My job is to make sure she's ready for January, and then help her with her schoolwork for the rest of the year.

She's a really bright girl, and I think she'll do really well. I'll tutor her for six hours a week, but I’m hoping to teach her more than English. Please pray that God uses me and others at the church to bring healing to this young women, to instil in her a sense of value and worth, and to show her that in Jesus she can have a bright future.

Sunday 26th

I spent most of the day at church as I went to both the English and Kinyarwanda services, so 8am till 2pm. It was my first time at the Kinyarwanda service and I really enjoyed it. A girl called Sandrine explained what the songs were about, and I did my best to sing along. The worship was quite lively, but not so different from Jubilee. Then my friend Enoch interpreted the sermon into English for me. Oh my word, he is such a good interpreter.

Then in the evening Dora's friend Bebe and her brother Daddy came round which was really nice. We had dinner, watched this amazing Mexican soap opera and played uno. You just don't understand how hilarious tv is here. The exaggerated facial expressions, overly dramatic music and poor acting, coupled with the worst cinematography possibly in history makes for the funniest television I’ve ever seen. If you ever get a chance to watch 'Guido and an Angel', do. You won't regret it. Seriously, should probably go and try and buy it on Amazon. If you thought Rick Warren enriched your life, Guido is like in a whole nother category. Buy it.

Friday 24th

I started at 7.15 this morning at church to help prepare lunch for the street kids, and I got to know a couple of the guys who also help out.

Then things got a bit hairy!



The other day when I was walking home from church I heard this pathetic bleeting sound. I looked up to see a tiny baby goat, all distressed. When its owner picked it up, I asked if I could go and hold it. So I climbed through a ditch up into their garden to go and see the goat and introduce myself.. This afternoon as I passed by and greeted the family, one of the women ran off to catch a baby goat for me to hold! So I ended up spending some time there, and I think I met the whole family, about twenty five people in all! The down side is, I stink of goat, but the upside is that I’ve made some new friends...

Wednesday 22nd

Look at the pretty beads!

I did something really fun today. Jen and Serge had a business meeting with a Congolese refugee called Nathalie. Her husband left her in 2000 with three small children and twins on the way. She had to flee the DRC to escape the ethnic conflict and moved her family to Kiziba Refugee Camp in north-west Rwanda. But its turns out that she's something of an entrepreneur. She started a creative association in the camp, a group of women who make and sell jewellery and other handicrafts. She donates some of the profits to the youth ministry in the camp and the rest provides for their families. She's an amazing woman.

Well anyway, initially Serge was acting as an interpreter between Natalie and Jen, as they don't have a common language. But I asked if I could have a go and they said yes! So I interpreted for a couple of hours French to English, English to French, and it was so much fun! Serge had to help out a little bit with words that I didn't know, but for the most part it was me. Tres bien! Jen is going to take the jewellery back to Canada to sell, because Nathalie will make more money that way.

Her jewellery is so nice, I just couldn't resist!

Monday 20th

I worked out my schedule with Jen today, which is great, because it means I can just get on with life. I'm spending most of my time with Ubizima, the association for people with HIV Aids. They're also producing handicrafts for Jen to sell in Canada. They're really beautiful people. I've not come across any English speakers so far, only Mama Deborah who runs the association, so communication is mainly done by hand gestures, and by God's grace! But we're doing a language exchange, so as they teach me Kinyarwanda, I'll teach them English. By the end of the year we should all be communicating freely.

Here are some of the Ubuzima women making beads.

Sunday 19th

Ok, so yesterday was really fun. In the afternoon we dressed up in traditional dresses called imishanana. In these photos I'm with Jen and Dora. (Jen runs Iteams in Rwanda and I live with Dora). The 2 ceremonies were really interesting to watch, although I obviously didn't understand much as they were in Kinyarwanda.


Later that evening, the whole family went to Nicolas' parents’ house to evaluate the ceremonies. I was the only muzungu there and I stuck out like a sore thumb. It’s difficult at the moment because I don't speak the language and I don't know who can speak French/English, so you just have to sit and smile. And everyone stares at me like I'm green or something. I think it’s quite unusual to have a muzungu at family events, so it was a real privilege to be invited. I just wish I was able to participate better. I start my Kinyarwanda lessons next week so hopefully it will help...

Look how pretty we are!

I had church this morning. Vivante has just started an English service, which is good for me for obvious reasons. Its 8-10 am, and the walk home is really beautiful and takes just under half an hour. And I made a friend on the way home. He’s a student at the local business school and he speaks very good English. And at the moment, that’s my only requirement when choosing friends!

And a couple of street kids followed me home as i was walking through our neighbourhood. When they asked me for some food, i told them to wait where they were and I’d take it to them. But when i came back out the house to leave, they were in my garden drinking water from the tap. I’m not too pleased about this, as now they know where I live, they’ll probably come back, and there’s no way to stop them coming and going as they please. I feel a bit vulnerable in my room. You can see straight into it from the street, and I often hear cries of ‘muzungu muzungu’ as people pass. I sure make the house an attractive target for thieves...



As for la vie quotidienne, the goats come back most days, and its stormy again. I’m looking quite brown now, but I think its more dust than sun tan! And I don’t know what I had for lunch today, but I think it’s best to keep it that way! It tasted nice whatever it was, and was a good change from rice and tomatoes. Lastly, I have the biggest mosquito bite on my leg EVER and it’s very itchy.

I hope you are all well and making the most of the opportunities and resources the LORD gives you.

We’re just chilling out this afternoon after a very busy week.

Saturday 18th

When the rain comes it pours! We had thunderstorms all night from about twelve to four. I sat and watched it for a while as because I couldn't sleep with all the noise. Its a single story house with a tin roof, so the rain was LOUD.

Dora's cousin Nicolas got married this morning, and I just got back from his civil wedding ceremony. Somehow I managed to get into the official wedding photographs?! I guess I'm part of the family now. Then this afternoon we have the gusaba (asking the brides parents for her hand in marriage) and the gukwa (the giving of cows as a dowry). He is living with us until his church wedding in december.

Friday 17th

I walked to church this morning. It must have been about 30 degrees when I left the house at half nine. My shoulders are looking pretty toasted. The weather today was beautiful. I hear its pretty cold in the UK...

So I spent a couple of hours preparing food for the street kids and then cooked it over an open fire. Initially I was asked to chop the carrots, but was quickly demoted after dropping them on the floor. Without all the amenities of a western kitchen, cooking can be quite a challenge! And I made quite a stir when I sat on the floor to chop the tomatoes. They were all like 'No muzungu! No!' Apparently its a chair or nothing here. But everyone is being very gracious about my cross cultural faux pas. And it turns out that they use the term 'street kids' to refer to all homeless people, regardless of age, so most of the 'kids' we served food to were older than me!

Some of the neighbourhood kids were hanging around because they knew we had food, so we gave them the leftovers.

After this, I went to help out the Ubuzima ladies. They tried to teach me to use a sewing machine, but after realising this was beyond my capabilities, I was asked to make beads instead. These beads will be painted and turned into necklaces in the coming weeks. Mama Deborah, who runs Ubuzima, was the only one who could speak English, so communication was quite difficult!

Then in the afternoon I went on my own to the Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre. I managed to hold it together until I got to the section about the failure of the international community to prevent the genocide or intervene. We knew what was going on, were even on the ground to witness the massacres, but we did nothing. Shame on us.

There was a garden of cacti to represent the fact that Rwandans had to try and protect themselves because no one else was willing to come and help them.

Thursday 16th

I ran out of hot water today so had to use cold water straight from the tap. It was bracing to say the least. (This is the wash bin we keep the water in)

Met Mama Deborah this morning. She is the lady who runs the ministry for people with HIV Aids called Ubuzima. They have just started a small social enterprise and will be hand-making lots of great gifts just in time for Christmas. We spent four hours at the market today buying igitengi, which is the funky patterned cloth they use here. I'm going to be hanging out with the Ubuzima guys, doing some beading, maybe learning to sew and advising them on what would sell well in the West. So if you're looking to buy some high quality, fairly traded, ethical goods, watch this space!

So far the weather has been great. I love that I'm not going to have a winter this year! It was about 30 degrees today and bright sunshine. Not that I'm enjoying rubbing it in or anything. Then this afternoon the rain came. The temperature dropped about 10 degree, and there was a massive dust storm before he heavens opened. Fortunately we were indoors at the time.

I got home to find a family of goats in my garden. I've been joking with Dora that we should get some, but when I called her she assured me that these goats belonged to a neighbour. Still, it was a nice surprise to have them visit.

I think i'm the only Muzunga in the village. When I walk past, people stare and whisper 'Muzunga, muzunga'. Hopefully I’ll be able to integrate better when I can speak some more Kinyarwana.

Wednesday 15th

We start at 5.30 am to pray together. It doesn't feel that early, as most people are out and about by six.

Kigali is one of the most beautiful places I've been. It is surrounded by mountains and built in levels on the rolling hills. Because of all the rain, its really green and lush, and everything looks red because of the dust. Very pretty!

I went into town with Jen to do some orientation. Its not at all what I thought it would be like. There's quite a big middle class and I haven't seen that much poverty yet. Kigali is really developed and very well maintained. There are even two shopping centres here! And there are loads of western products on sale – Nivea, Kitcats, Mars Bars, Ovaltine, Palmolive, Vaseline, Kellogs Cornflakes, Doritos. The only difference is the price. The cheapest box of Frosties I could find cost £8!

Picked up some bits in town to get me started – bin, kettle, wash basket etc.

Went to a great restaurant for lunch, had a toasted chicken pesto sandwich with chips and Heinz ketchup, followed by chocolate ice cream. I don't know how I’m coping!

In the evening I went with Dora to meet Joseph, the local leader, to register as a visitor in the area. Now I’m official.

Meeting the team and my new home

Serge and Isabella met me at the airport, then took me out to lunch. Spent some time getting to know them that afternoon at their house, before coming to Dora's. Dora is the wonderful Rwandan lady who has kindly offered to share her house with me for the next 8 months.

We drove in the dark on bumpy dirt roads for about twenty minutes before coming to a stop. The house appears to be in quite a deprived area, scheduled for demolition in the next few months. We scrambled down a steep hill, carefully avoiding the ditch at the bottom and entered through a corrugated iron gate which can't be locked. We came in through the kitchen, taking care not to knock over the cooking pots on the floor (everythng is cooked on charcoal). The room was filled with smell of smoke and rice. Initially I thought that the house consited of just two rooms, but later discovered that it is actually very big with 7 rooms. When Dora got back from work, Jen and Serge left and there I was, seemingly alone in the Rwandan bush. To be honest, when I first arrived I was a bit scared. But spending time with Dora and Alice (another housemate) that first evening put my mind at rest. Dora and Alice are both really sweet. (Dora phones me several times a day to make sure I'm ok!) Dora's house is actually really nice. She's got a massive dining room and lounge, much bigger than average in the UK, and three large bedrooms. Cold running water in the bathroom, and a jerry can filled with hot water. (They boil water in the evening then wrap the can up in blankets in the washbin to keep it warm). I have a bucket and a cup for showering.

I have my own room with a double bed and a big double window. I went to bed with the windows wide open, to the sound of the crickets, frogs and people in the street. Needless to say, I didn't get much sleep that first night. I felt really insecure, not knowing how safe the neighbourhood was or how effective the bars on the windows were at keeping intruders out! But in the morning I was able to explore the neighbourhood and I feel really safe here now. And Dora's house is great – very comfortable and nicely decorated.

In fact, i'm getting on really well!

The journey here

Hello everyone!

Firstly, I don't have regular access to the internet, so I'm sorry but I can't blog very often.

The Journey so far...

Within a few minutes of arriving at Heathrow, the handle of my suitcase had partially snapped under the weight of all my luggage. Suz kindly volunteered to help me carry everything, and I warned her about the precarious state of the handle. A few minutes later I turned round to see her holding the entire handle in the air, completely and irrevocably detached from the case, sheepish look on her face. Then when we got to check in, the lady at the desk said I wasn't permitted to take any checked luggage anyway! Fortunately, it was just a error in the system, and was quickly sorted out. After a lovely family meal at Cafe Rouge, I was on my way, with all my luggage!
I flew overnight to Nairobi, enjoyed a breakfast of BBQ Pringles and Del Monte apple juice and slept at the airport while I waited for my plane.

It was hot at the airport, so I bought 2 litres of water to keep hydrated. I thought I'd be allowed to take it on the plane, but I wasn't, so I had to down most of it at security control.
















During the short flight to kigali, I sat next to a Congolese charity worker. We spoke in French, which was a real boost to my confidence as I was able to communicate everything I wanted and understand most of what he was saying.

watch this space

No internet yet peeps.

Please be patient...